I’ll never forget the moment I first stepped into the Atacama Desert.
Standing in what felt like another planet entirely, surrounded by endless salt flats that stretched to volcanic peaks on the horizon, I realized I’d entered one of Earth’s most extreme and beautiful places. Some weather stations here haven’t recorded rain in over 400 years. The landscape looked so alien that NASA uses it to test Mars rovers.
Where is the Atacama Desert, you might wonder? This extraordinary place stretches across northern Chile, squeezed between the Pacific Ocean and the towering Andes Mountains. On an atacama desert map, you’ll find it running for over 600 miles along Chile’s coast, creating one of the most unique environments on our planet.
The Atacama isn’t just the driest place on earth outside Antarctica. It’s a land of contradictions where life somehow thrives despite impossible odds, where flamingos wade through turquoise lagoons in a waterless desert, and where the night sky reveals more stars than you ever imagined existed.
My four days exploring this otherworldly landscape taught me that the Atacama isn’t about what it lacks. It’s about what it reveals when everything else is stripped away.
1. Understanding Why the Atacama Desert Is the Driest Place on Earth
Before I arrived, I thought I understood what “dry” meant. I was wrong.
The Atacama Desert receives an average of just 0.03 inches of rainfall per year. Some areas haven’t seen a single drop of rain since records began. This makes it fifty times drier than California’s Death Valley, earning its reputation as the driest place on earth.
Standing in the middle of the desert, the extreme aridity became real to me. My lips cracked within hours. I drank water constantly. The air felt so dry it almost hurt to breathe at first.
But what makes the Atacama so incredibly arid? The answer lies in a perfect storm of geographical factors working together.
The Andes Mountains to the east block moisture-laden air from the Amazon Basin. These peaks create what scientists call a “rain shadow effect,” preventing any humidity from reaching the desert.
To the west, the cold Humboldt Current flows up from Antarctica along the Pacific coast. This frigid ocean current cools the air above it, causing any moisture to condense over the water before reaching land. By the time air reaches the desert, it’s completely stripped of humidity.
The South Pacific high-pressure system adds another layer to this dryness, creating stable atmospheric conditions that prevent cloud formation and rainfall.
Looking at a chile map of atacama, you can see how the desert sits trapped between these powerful forces, creating conditions so extreme that some soil samples contain no detectable organic matter.
Yet somehow, despite being the driest non-polar desert in the world, the Atacama supports an incredible array of life. I discovered this firsthand as flamingos appeared on salt lagoons and vicuñas grazed on highlands that looked completely barren from a distance.
2. Witness Sunrise at El Tatio Geysers
My alarm went off at 3:30 AM, and every part of me wanted to stay in bed. But I dragged myself up, bundled into every layer I’d packed, and climbed into the tour van for what would become one of my most magical travel experiences ever.
El Tatio Geysers sit at 14,170 feet above sea level, making this one of the highest geyser fields in the world. The tours atacama desert operators offer all leave before dawn because sunrise is when the geysers put on their most spectacular show.
The drive took about two hours through pitch-black darkness, climbing higher and higher into the Andes. I could feel the altitude pressing on my chest, making each breath a little harder to take.
Then, as the first hints of dawn colored the sky, we arrived. And I gasped.
Hundreds of geysers erupted simultaneously, sending columns of steam dozens of feet into the freezing air. In the dim morning light, the steam glowed ethereal and ghostly, transforming the entire valley into something from a dream.
The temperature hovered around freezing, maybe even below. My fingers went numb within minutes despite my gloves. But I couldn’t stop watching the natural spectacle unfolding before me.
As the sun rose higher, the temperature differential decreased, and gradually the geysers calmed. By 10 AM, most had stopped their dramatic eruptions entirely. This is why the early morning departure is absolutely essential.
I walked carefully among the geothermal features, the ground crunching beneath my boots and steam rising from boiling pools of brilliant turquoise water. My guide explained that this geothermal activity happens because we’re standing on the edge of the Ring of Fire, where tectonic plates meet.
Wildlife surprised me at this altitude. Vicuñas, wild relatives of llamas, grazed peacefully nearby, completely adapted to the extreme conditions. I also spotted Andean foxes and numerous bird species that somehow thrive in this harsh environment.
Most atacama desert tours include a stop at natural hot springs where you can soak while surrounded by geysers. I jumped at the chance, and floating in hot water while gazing at snow-capped volcanoes and steaming geysers became an experience I’ll treasure forever.
The journey back to San Pedro gave me time to appreciate the changing landscape. We stopped to spot wildlife, and I saw my first flamingos of the trip feeding in shallow lagoons.
Bring every warm layer you own for this experience. The altitude and temperature make this genuinely challenging, but it’s absolutely worth the early morning wake-up call.
3. Float in the Surreal Atacama Salt Flats
When people ask me about the most otherworldly experience in the Atacama Desert, I always talk about floating in Laguna Cejar.
The Atacama salt flats stretch for miles, creating stark white landscapes that hurt your eyes under the intense sun. But hidden within these salt deposits are turquoise lagoons with water so salty you can’t possibly sink.
Laguna Cejar became my Dead Sea experience in Chile. The water’s salt concentration is even higher than the Dead Sea, creating conditions where floating requires absolutely no effort.
I walked down to the water’s edge, the salt crunching beneath my feet like fresh snow. The lagoon’s color shifted from deep blue to brilliant turquoise depending on the angle of the sun, creating an almost artificial-looking palette against the white salt and distant brown mountains.
Then I waded in, and within seconds, my body popped to the surface like a cork. I couldn’t sink if I tried. Lying back, I floated effortlessly on my back, my ears submerged while I stared up at the impossibly blue sky.
The sensation was bizarre and wonderful. My body sat higher in the water than in any ocean, and I could literally read a book while floating without any effort to stay afloat.
But I learned an important lesson quickly: don’t get this water in your eyes or mouth. The salt concentration burns intensely, and several people in my group made this mistake. Keep your face above water and you’ll have an incredible experience.
After about 20 minutes, I climbed out, and as the water evaporated off my skin, I was covered in a white crust of salt. It felt strange but also oddly cleansing, like a natural exfoliation treatment.
Most atacama desert tours pair Laguna Cejar with Laguna Chaxa, where three different flamingo species feed in the shallow, salty waters. The contrast between these bright pink birds and the stark white salt created photos that look almost too vivid to be real.
Watching Chilean, Andean, and James’s flamingos sift through the briny water for tiny shrimp, I marveled at life’s ability to adapt. These birds thrive in water so salty it would kill most organisms.
The salt flat tours typically happen in the afternoon, and many operators time the experience to end at sunset. Watching the sun sink behind the mountains while standing in the middle of white salt flats painted orange and pink might have been the most beautiful sunset I’ve ever witnessed.
Bring swimwear, towels, and lots of water for this experience. The combination of altitude and salt dehydrates you quickly. And definitely bring a camera because the photo opportunities are incredible.
4. Explore the Alien Landscapes of Valle de la Luna
Valle de la Luna earned its name for good reason. Walking through the Valley of the Moon genuinely felt like stepping onto another planet.
This section of the Los Flamencos Nature Reserve sits just 13 kilometers west of San Pedro de Atacama, making it one of the easiest atacama desert tours to experience. But easy access doesn’t make it any less spectacular.
The landscape defies description. Sharp ridges of rock thrust up from the desert floor, carved by millions of years of wind erosion into shapes that look artificial. Salt deposits create white patches against the ochre and rust-colored earth. Massive sand dunes rise between stone formations.
I climbed one of the large dunes, my feet sinking with each step, and stood at the top gazing across a landscape that truly looked lunar. NASA tested Mars rovers here because the terrain so closely resembles the red planet’s surface.
My guide led us to several different viewpoints as afternoon turned to evening. Each offered completely different perspectives on this alien world. At one spot called Las Tres Marías, three distinctive rock formations tower above the valley, shaped by wind over countless millennia.
At another location, we climbed down into a cave formed by salt crystals. Inside, the walls sparkled in the fading light, and the silence felt absolute. Standing in that cave, surrounded by crystallized salt deposits, I felt like I’d discovered a hidden treasure.
As sunset approached, other tourists began gathering at the most popular viewpoint. I understood why. Valle de la Luna at sunset became one of the most spectacular natural shows I’ve ever witnessed.
The setting sun painted the rocks in constantly shifting shades of red, orange, purple, and gold. Shadows lengthened dramatically, emphasizing every ridge and valley in the landscape. The distant Andes Mountains glowed pink and purple against the darkening sky.
Everyone fell silent, watching nature’s light show. For about 30 minutes, the valley transformed continuously as the sun sank lower, revealing new details and colors with each passing moment.
I returned to Valle de la Luna again at sunrise on my last day, taking my guide’s recommendation to experience it without crowds. Walking through the valley in the quiet dawn light, with only a handful of other people present, felt even more special than the famous sunset.
The morning light brought out different colors, and I had space to wander and explore at my own pace. I discovered petroglyphs on some rock faces, ancient artwork left by indigenous people who somehow survived in this harsh environment.
Most tours of Valle de la Luna last about four hours, and you’ll do a fair amount of walking and climbing. Wear sturdy shoes with good grip because the terrain is rough and sometimes slippery with salt.
5. Marvel at the Rainbow Valley’s Kaleidoscopic Rocks
I thought Valle de la Luna had shown me the Atacama’s most colorful landscapes. Then I visited Rainbow Valley and realized I hadn’t seen anything yet.
Located about 70 kilometers from San Pedro, Rainbow Valley doesn’t appear on every atacama desert map or standard tour itinerary. Many visitors skip it entirely. Their loss became my gain because this hidden gem might have been my favorite landscape discovery.
The drive took us through increasingly remote desert terrain, and I started wondering if we’d taken a wrong turn. Then suddenly, the valley appeared, and my jaw dropped.
The rock formations displayed every color imaginable. Vibrant greens, deep purples, bright reds, golden yellows, and earthy browns striped the hillsides in horizontal bands. It looked like someone had painted the landscape with a giant brush, creating abstract art on a massive scale.
These incredible colors come from different minerals in the soil and rock. Each colored band represents a different geological period when specific minerals were deposited. Iron oxides create the reds and oranges, copper minerals produce the greens and blues, and manganese adds purple tones.
We took a relatively easy hike through the valley, stopping frequently to photograph the constantly changing colors. Every angle revealed new combinations, and as the sun shifted position, the intensity of different hues changed dramatically.
Unlike the crowded sunset at Valle de la Luna, Rainbow Valley felt beautifully empty. Only a handful of tourists visit daily, creating an experience that felt personal and unhurried.
My guide set up a breakfast picnic against a backdrop of the most vividly colored rocks. Sitting on a blanket eating fresh fruit and pastries while surrounded by this natural rainbow might sound surreal, but it perfectly captured the Atacama’s ability to combine the ordinary with the extraordinary.
Many atacama desert tours combine Rainbow Valley with visits to Hierbas Buenas, where you can see ancient petroglyphs carved into rocks by indigenous peoples thousands of years ago. Seeing these symbols of human presence in such a remote location reminded me that despite its harsh reputation, the Atacama has been home to people for millennia.
The atacameño people who live in this region today descend from cultures that arrived here around 12,000 years ago. They developed sophisticated farming techniques using desert oases and built communities that still thrive in places like San Pedro de Atacama.
Rainbow Valley tours typically happen in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day. The combination of altitude and direct sun can be punishing during midday hours.
6. Experience World-Class Stargazing Under Perfect Skies
My entire trip to the Atacama Desert could have been worth it for the stargazing alone.
I’ve looked at stars from many places, but nothing compared to the night sky over the Atacama Desert. The combination of high altitude, zero light pollution, almost no cloud cover, and extremely dry air creates what many astronomers consider the best stargazing conditions on Earth.
Major international observatories have set up operations throughout the region, taking advantage of these perfect conditions. The European Southern Observatory, ALMA (Atacama Large Millimeter Array), and other facilities dot the landscape.
I booked a stargazing tour on my second night, and it changed my relationship with the universe entirely.
We drove out of San Pedro just after sunset, heading into complete darkness. No streetlights, no buildings, no cars. Just endless desert and the beginning of twilight.
As night fell, stars began appearing. Then more stars. Then the Milky Way emerged as a river of light flowing across the entire sky. I’d never seen it so clearly defined, so three-dimensional, so alive with detail.
Our guide set up several telescopes and first had us simply look up with naked eyes. He pointed out constellations I’d never been able to identify before because the sheer number of visible stars had always confused me. But here, even the dimest stars shone clearly.
Through the telescope, I saw Saturn’s rings in crisp detail. Jupiter’s bands and four largest moons appeared clearly. The guide showed us nebulae, star clusters, and galaxies millions of light-years away.
But honestly, the most moving moments came from simply lying on my back in the sand, no telescope, just me and the universe. The Milky Way stretched overhead so vividly I felt I could reach up and touch it.
Shooting stars streaked across the sky constantly. I counted over 20 during our two-hour tour, brilliant streaks of light appearing without warning.
The Southern Cross constellation, which I’d never seen before visiting this hemisphere, dominated the southern sky. My guide explained its importance to navigation for indigenous peoples and early explorers.
Some tour operators offer even more elaborate experiences, combining stargazing with wine and cheese or traditional meals. But the simple act of lying under that perfect sky felt like enough for me.
If you’re visiting during a new moon, the darkness becomes even more complete and the stars even more brilliant. I accidentally scheduled my trip during a quarter moon, and it was still the best stargazing of my life.
The Atacama’s clear skies have made it crucial to astronomical research. Several of the world’s most important telescopes operate here, and major space agencies depend on data collected from this remote corner of Chile.
This stargazing experience reminded me why the Atacama is often called the best place on Earth to view the cosmos. Standing under that incredible sky, feeling tiny and insignificant in the best possible way, became a moment of profound perspective.
7. Discover Flamingos at High-Altitude Lagoons
One of the most unexpected sights in the Atacama Desert is bright pink flamingos wading through icy lagoons at over 13,000 feet altitude.
The first time I spotted flamingos against the backdrop of snow-capped volcanoes and barren desert, I actually laughed out loud. It seemed impossible. Flamingos need water, right? How could they thrive in the driest place on earth?
The answer lies in the Atacama’s hidden water sources. Despite receiving almost no rainfall, the region has numerous lagoons fed by underground aquifers and snowmelt from the Andes. These lagoons are incredibly salty, creating the perfect habitat for the tiny shrimp and algae that flamingos feed on.
I visited several lagoon areas during my atacama desert tours, and each offered something different. Laguna Chaxa, part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve, became my favorite flamingo-watching spot.
Wooden walkways extend into the lagoon area, allowing close-up views without disturbing the birds. I stood just meters away from hundreds of flamingos feeding, their distinctive filtering behavior creating ripples across the shallow water.
Three different flamingo species feed here together. Chilean flamingos, the most common, have gray legs with pink joints. Andean flamingos sport yellow legs and are slightly larger. James’s flamingos, the smallest and rarest, have bright red legs.
Watching them feed became mesmerizing. They dip their specialized beaks upside-down into the water, using built-in filters to separate tiny organisms from the salty water. The synchronized bobbing of hundreds of birds created an almost hypnotic rhythm.
The contrast between these delicate pink birds and the harsh desert landscape created surreal photo opportunities. Behind them, the white salt flats stretched to distant volcanoes, and the impossibly blue sky completed a color palette that looked too vivid to be real.
Beyond flamingos, I spotted numerous other bird species that somehow thrive here. Plovers scurried along the shoreline. Avocets probed the mud with their distinctive upturned beaks. Andean gulls circled overhead.
Some tours venture to more remote lagoons in the high altiplano, the elevated plateau that forms the eastern edge of the Atacama. These trips take you above 14,000 feet to lagoons that see fewer visitors and offer even more pristine wildlife viewing.
At Laguna Miscanti and Laguna Miñiques, I watched flamingos against a backdrop of some of the most dramatic mountain scenery I’ve ever seen. The lagoons’ deep blue water, surrounded by volcanoes and completely treeless landscape, created views that looked like paintings.
The altitude at these high lagoons really affects you. I felt lightheaded and slightly breathless, and climbing even small hills left me panting. But the wildlife and scenery made every labored breath worthwhile.
Bring binoculars if you have them, though even with naked eyes, you’ll get great views of the flamingos. And dress in layers because the temperature can drop dramatically when clouds pass over the sun, even during summer.
8. Soak in Remote Hot Springs
After several days of tours starting before dawn and ending after sunset, my body craved relaxation. The Atacama Desert delivered in an unexpected way with natural hot springs scattered throughout the region.
The most memorable hot springs I visited were the Puritama Hot Springs, located about 30 kilometers north of San Pedro de Atacama. Fed by geothermal activity from the volcanoes dominating the region, these springs create a ribbon of warm pools following a desert stream.
The drive there took us through increasingly barren landscape, and I wondered where water could possibly exist in this environment. Then we descended into a hidden canyon, and suddenly green vegetation appeared, fed by the warm water flowing through.
Eight different pools cascade down the canyon, connected by wooden walkways. The water temperature hovers around 91°F year-round, creating perfect soaking conditions.
I spent two hours moving between pools, letting the mineral-rich water soothe muscles tired from hiking at altitude. The surrounding canyon walls blocked any wind, creating a warm microclimate that felt like paradise.
The contrast was remarkable. Sitting in hot water, surrounded by lush green plants fed by the thermal springs, while the desert loomed just above the canyon rim, I experienced the Atacama’s dramatic contrasts in miniature.
Other visitors splashed and chatted, but plenty of quiet corners existed where I could soak in solitude, listening to water trickling between pools and birds singing in the vegetation.
Some atacama desert tours include stops at the Baltinache hidden lagoons, where you can swim in saltwater sinkholes tucked between sand dunes. These smaller lagoons don’t have the same tourist infrastructure as Laguna Cejar, making them feel more adventurous and secret.
I visited one of these hidden lagoons on my last afternoon. Climbing over a sand dune and suddenly seeing brilliant blue water in a desert crater felt like discovering a hidden oasis. Swimming in the salty water while surrounded by empty dunes created a peaceful, meditative experience.
The hot springs and hidden lagoons reminded me that water does exist in the Atacama, just in unexpected places and forms. These rare water sources become magnets for life, creating lush oases in the otherwise barren landscape.
9. Walk Through San Pedro de Atacama’s Adobe Streets
San Pedro de Atacama became my home base and quickly captured my heart. This small town serves as the jumping-off point for all atacama desert tours, but it’s worth experiencing for its own character.
The entire town consists of adobe buildings following traditional atacameño architectural styles. Narrow dirt streets create a labyrinth between whitewashed walls. No building exceeds two stories, maintaining a scale that feels human and approachable.
Despite its small size, San Pedro buzzes with international tourists and locals mixing together. Tour operators line the main street, Caracoles, offering excursions to every corner of the desert. Restaurants serve everything from traditional Chilean dishes to international cuisine.
I spent my evenings walking these dusty streets, popping into artisan shops selling alpaca wool textiles, jewelry made from local stones, and artwork inspired by the surrounding landscapes. Many shops are run by local atacameño people, and I loved hearing their stories about life in this extreme environment.
The town’s central plaza, shaded by trees and surrounded by cafes, became my favorite spot to relax during the hottest part of the day. Locals gather here in the late afternoon, and I’d sit on a bench watching daily life unfold while eating ice cream and planning my next adventure.
San Pedro’s church, Iglesia de San Pedro, dates back to the 17th century and ranks among the oldest churches in Chile. Its thick adobe walls, wooden ceiling, and simple interior reflect the resourcefulness required to build anything permanent in this harsh environment.
The Museo Arqueológico R.P. Gustavo Le Paige houses an impressive collection of atacameño artifacts, including some of the oldest mummies found in South America. These incredibly well-preserved remains, protected by the desert’s extreme dryness, offer insights into how people have lived here for thousands of years.
I also visited the Museum of Meteorites, run by enthusiasts who’ve collected over 6,000 meteorites that fell in the Atacama Desert. The collection includes some of the most significant space rocks ever found, and the passionate staff made the experience engaging even for someone like me with limited astronomy knowledge.
Evenings in San Pedro had their own rhythm. Restaurants filled with travelers sharing stories about their day’s adventures. Street vendors sold empanadas and other snacks. Tour groups gathered for briefings about tomorrow’s early departures.
The town manages to feel simultaneously touristy and authentic. Yes, everything caters to visitors, but the underlying atacameño culture and architecture give San Pedro genuine character beyond just a tour hub.
Despite being in the middle of the driest place on earth, San Pedro has a vibrant energy that makes it more than just a place to sleep between desert excursions.
10. Challenge Yourself at High Altitude
One aspect of the Atacama Desert that surprised me was the altitude. San Pedro de Atacama sits at 7,900 feet above sea level, and many attractions reach far higher.
I felt the altitude immediately upon arrival. Walking up stairs left me breathless. My first night, I barely slept, suffering from mild altitude sickness with a headache and restlessness.
The guides emphasize acclimatization constantly. They recommend taking the first day easy, drinking lots of water, avoiding alcohol, and eating light meals. I followed this advice, spending my first afternoon walking slowly around San Pedro and resting frequently.
By day two, I felt significantly better, and by day three, the altitude barely bothered me during normal activities. But whenever we climbed higher for tours, I felt it again immediately.
At El Tatio Geysers, sitting at over 14,000 feet, even walking slowly left me breathing hard. At the highest lagoons approaching 15,000 feet, I felt genuinely lightheaded and needed to sit down frequently.
Some of the more adventurous atacama desert tours include hikes to volcano summits exceeding 19,000 feet. I didn’t attempt these, knowing my body wouldn’t handle the altitude well, but I met travelers who summited and described it as one of their life’s greatest challenges.
The combination of altitude, intense sun, and dry air creates unique physical challenges. I drank more water than I ever have in my life, constantly refilling my bottle at restaurants and hotels. Even with constant hydration, my lips stayed chapped the entire trip.
The sun’s intensity at this altitude with almost no atmospheric water to filter UV rays meant I burned despite religious sunscreen application. I learned to wear long sleeves, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses constantly.
But these physical challenges became part of the Atacama experience. Adapting to the extreme environment made me appreciate how remarkable it is that anyone lives here, much less that civilizations have thrived in this region for millennia.
The atacameño people developed sophisticated strategies for surviving here, from innovative irrigation systems to architectural techniques that moderate temperature extremes. Learning about their ingenuity deepened my respect for both the people and the place.
Planning Your Atacama Desert Adventure
After experiencing the magic of the driest place on earth, I want to share practical advice for your own journey to this incredible region.
Most visitors fly into Calama’s El Loa Airport from Santiago, then travel about 1.5 hours to San Pedro de Atacama. The airport transfer is straightforward, with numerous companies offering shuttle services. I arranged mine through my hotel, which simplified the process.
I spent four days exploring the Atacama, which felt perfect. Three days would hit the major highlights, but four gave me time to really soak in the experience without rushing. Five days would allow even more remote excursions or time to relax.
Accommodations in San Pedro range from basic hostels perfect for backpackers to luxury lodges offering incredible desert views. I chose a mid-range hotel with a comfortable bed and hot showers, which felt essential after long days in the desert.
Book your major tours in advance, especially during peak season. While you can arrange everything last-minute in San Pedro, the most popular tours like El Tatio Geysers fill up quickly. I booked my core experiences before arriving and left some days free for spontaneous decisions.
The best time to visit is during Chile’s fall or spring, roughly March through May or September through November. Summer brings intense heat despite the desert’s cool reputation, while winter nights drop below freezing regularly.
Bring cash in Chilean pesos for smaller purchases, park entrance fees, and tipping guides. Many places accept cards, but having cash provides flexibility.
Pack layers because temperature swings are dramatic. I wore shorts in the afternoon and my warmest jacket after sunset. Bring warm clothes even during summer because early morning tours and evening stargazing get genuinely cold.
Essential items include high-SPF sunscreen, lip balm with SPF, a good hat, sunglasses, a refillable water bottle, and any altitude sickness medication your doctor recommends.
I found the pace of atacama desert tours manageable but demanding. Most days started before dawn for sunrise experiences and ended well after sunset. If you need rest days, schedule them because the altitude and intensity can wear you down.
Learn basic Spanish if possible. While many tour operators speak English, locals appreciate efforts to communicate in Spanish, and it opens doors to more authentic experiences.
The Atacama Desert changed my perspective on what landscapes can be, how life adapts to extremes, and the privilege of experiencing Earth’s most unique places. From floating in impossibly salty lagoons to watching geysers erupt at sunrise, every moment felt like discovering something impossible and magical.
This wasn’t just a trip to the driest place on earth. It was a journey to one of our planet’s most extraordinary environments, where beauty thrives in absence, where life finds ways to flourish against all odds, and where the night sky reminds us how small and fortunate we are.
The Atacama Desert is waiting for you. Pack your bags, embrace the altitude, and prepare for landscapes that will redefine what you thought deserts could be. I promise you’ve never seen anything like it.
